At Ona, the quality of what we serve begins long before it reaches the table. It starts with the farmers — the people who care for the land, nurture the soil, and grow the produce we rely on. Sourcing is at the heart of everything we do, which is why we make it a priority to visit farms, meet the growers, and understand the work behind every ingredient. These visits give us the insight and respect we need to serve food that is authentic, seasonal, and full of life.
In the province of Barcelona, only about 15% of cultivated land is certified organic. Of that, nearly two-thirds is dedicated to vineyards for cava and wine — a growing trend that other crops haven’t quite followed. That’s what makes farms like Can Fisas so special.
I recently visited the farm in Molins de Rei with Lluís Fisas, who now tends the land first planted by his great-grandfather. His approach is rooted in agroecology: crops are grown entirely in the open air, guided by the natural rhythm of the seasons, never forcing or overexploiting the soil. The fields are fertilised only with natural manure, and there are no synthetic fertilisers, fungicides, or herbicides in sight. Instead, biodiversity is encouraged — aromatic, edible, and medicinal herbs are planted to attract beneficial fauna that naturally control pests.
Walking through the farm, I could see how this philosophy isn’t just an idea but a lived practice. Every row, every companion planting felt like part of a bigger, carefully considered ecosystem. The co-planting and cover crops were clear evidence of this — different plants supporting each other, regenerating the soil, and protecting one another. One practice that particularly stood out was the use of wool from a neighboring sheep farm. Spread across the beds, the wool helps retain moisture, regulate temperature, and return nitrogen to the earth. The results were striking: two pepper varieties grew side by side, and those planted with wool were nearly three times the size of those without.
The farm itself is a landscape of abundance. Fig trees, quinces, apples, and pears punctuate the fields, bringing a richness and variety that feels alive. The figs, two heirloom varieties, were among the best I’ve eaten all year! Wild tarragon and marjoram grow freely among the crops, filling the air with fragrance and reminding me how much character emerges when the land is cared for thoughtfully.
Visiting Can Fisas reaffirmed why our relationships with farmers are so essential. They are the lifeblood of what we do at Ona, and their work allows us to celebrate produce at its highest expression — seasonal, expressive, and deeply connected to place. For us, it’s more than sourcing ingredients. It’s about understanding their story, the ecosystems they come from, and the people who make it all possible.
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